Wallse

braised rabbit with spatzle & wild mushrooms $15 – needs more rabbit meat.

this starter at chef-owner  kurt guttenbruner’s austrian restaurant wallse in the west village had some nice chanterelle mushrooms mixed in with the spatzle and green peas. a  creamy and delicious dish.

gazpacho soup $14

very clean pure flavor, great soup for a balmy night dining al fresco on west 11th and washington street.

wiener schnitzel  with lingonberries $32

I had a craving for wiener schnitzel, and  wallse makes a great wiener schnitzel.  a giant slab of  thinly pounded veal, breaded and lightly fried to a velvet crisp, balanced with sweet lingonberries.


tender is the schnitzel -  moist succulent veal inside a delicate  fried  crumb coating.  in austria, the term wiener schnitzel is protected by law and can only be made with veal.

potato cucumber salad is the traditional accompaniment ……..

……… along with lemon and parsley.

familie bauer sylvaner 2005 auslese – one of my favorite wines. i have a great love for aromatic wines , and this sylvaner auslese had a floral fragrance and a balance of sweetness and acidity that was perfect with the food.  i could drink this by the case. intoxicating to my auslese tooth.

chocolate almonds and pate a fruit.

dining on washington street in the soft darkness.  several tables are set out in front of the restaurant. nice and quiet, no cars and no people.

wallse is one of those quality yet casual neighborhood restaurants that make the west village great.  my only gripe is that there is no schwarzwalder kirschtorte (black forest cake with cream and cherries) on the dessert menu even though  it’s available at his other restaurant cafe sabarsky.


the rapture – seriously, a meal of  fried tender wiener schnitzel,  coupled with a highly aromatic sweet wine, finished off with an intense slice of opulent dark schwarzwalder kirschtorte, and a cup of coffee mit schlag, and i like it with a huge mountain of whipped cream …….  i think i could then die happily with a tyrolean smile on my face, my soul born aloft clouds of snowy schlag up to the giant field of edelweiss in the sky, where i can eat this meal for eternity, while seraphic cherubs gently play the blue danube on golden harps.

the upholstery store is a wine bar opened by chef kurt guttenbruner right around the corner from wallse. a cozy tiny sliver of a wine bar, good place to have a drink before walking a few steps for that wiener schnitzel.  they use those stemless riedel wineglasses here.

wallse has been around for years, and for good austrian food, this is a reliable restaurant to get a great wiener schnitzel should you ever get such a craving.  and heavenly cravings need to be satisfied.


copyright 2010 Jo Jo Kwong.  all rights reserved.



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I, macaron – Thevenin

macarons from thevenin in paris.  never heard of this bakery, have you?  thevenin is the dark horse of the parisian macaron field of contenders.

2 passion fruit macarons smashed together – my favorite flavor.  these had an intense tart sweetness characteristic of passion fruit. I was pleasantly surprised at how flavorful these macarons were, considering that thevenin is not a famous parisian bakery, nor is it on the foodie macaron map.

chocolate macaron with chocolate ganache filling – smooth and deep chocolate flavor.  great texture.  the coffee and coconut flavors were also excellent. these are 1  1/2″ diameter.

the  caramel macaron had the deep brown nuanced flavor of caramelized sugar which is a simple but great flavor.

pistachio macaron was pretty good, as was the rose macaron, and raspberry macaron.  with each bite i was more and more fond of these macs from thevenin. i could taste and identify each flavor of every macaron without a brochure, unlike most american made macarons which taste only of sugar and not much else.

thevenin bakery is a small boulangerie-patisserie in the 14th, on the south edge of paris. 119 avenue General LeClerc. they make many types of bread, and the fact that their macarons are quite delicious is a good reminder that native foods are usually best made in their native place of origin.  thevenin is not world famous like pierre herme, and yet these macarons were still better than any macarons i’ve had in the u.s.  it’s like the ubiquitous and  iconic new york pizza slice joint, even the worst slice in new york city will taste better than pizza made in any other state of the union.  french macarons in paris are the equivalent of the quintessential new york slice.

in the macaron race, sometimes when you have no expectations, life gives you everything you want.

thevenin has 2 other branches in paris.

related:  Best Macarons – Pierre Herme !

copyright 2010 Jo Jo Kwong.  all rights reserved.

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Japonais

uni sushi $7

I rarely eat at “no name chef” restaurants simply because there are so many excellent restaurants with great and famous chefs at the helm, however on our way to eat in tribeca, in a downpour and stuck in rush hour traffic on park ave. that did not seem to move at all, my friend couldn’t stand waiting in traffic and said let’s go to japonais. I did not want to go to japonais but it was just around the corner on 18 st. so we ran in.

lobster spring rolls $16

these were not bad but not particularly memorable.

spicy mono roll – octopus roll topped with spicy tuna tartare in eel sauce $16

the reason my friend wanted to come here was for this roll.  it was actually pretty good because i love the toothsome chew of octopus, but it’s a rather odd filling for a sushi roll. to say that the menu is a mash-up pastiche of pan-asian ingredients would be an understatement.

crispy fried soft shell crab $16

I had high hopes for this sandwich because fried soft shell crab is one of my favorite foods.   imagine my chagrin as i bit into the body of the crab and found it WET, ICY COLD and FISHY tasting !   this should be more aptly named fried not-thawed-out-not-fresh soft shell crab. worst soft shell crab i have ever eaten, truly disgraceful.

chestnut chicken $24

very average roasted organic chicken.  i don’t recall seeing any chestnuts.  i’ll gladly take the fried chicken at the redhead over this any day.

sweet potato fries – not crispy but at least they were sweet potato fries which i like.

warm chocolate filled beignets $11

awful – i took one bite of this tasteless leaden ball and left the rest uneaten. the green tea semi-freddo it came with had no flavor whatsoever. i have never not eaten a dessert but this was atrocious.

I tell my friends that the reason that I always go to chef driven restaurants is because that’s where the good food is. there’s a reason that the best “famous name” chefs win awards – they cook the best !   japonais is proof of that statement.  it’s a perfect example of a pricey no-name-chef restaurant that serves mediocre to horrid food that no new york foodie would be caught dead in.  now you know why.

soy sauce pot – the most charming thing about this meal was this cute little red soy sauce pot.

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copyright 2010 Jo Jo Kwong. all rights reserved.

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Moonstruck Chocolatier

snowman

eat a snowman, then eat all his friends.  these hefty handcrafted chocolate truffles are by moonstruck chocolatier.   moonstruck is based in portland, OR,  but will ship their chocolates anywhere.

moonstruck box of chocolates

if your life has not been like a box of chocolates then just buy yourself a box!  24 piece wrapped box $50.  a small price to make someone happy. check out all the flavors in this box at moonstruck.

moonstruck chocolates

a box assortment of chocolates shaped like hearts, windmills and seashells.  16 piece box collection $32.  this includes milk chocolates and dark chocolates in various flavors such as caramel, coffee.

tic tac toe

not cupcakes.  these are chocolate truffles shaped and decorated to resemble miniature cupcakes, in cupcake like flavors – strawberry cheescake, sour cream fudge and german chocolate cake.  boxed cupcake truffle collection 4 pieces for $13.  moonstruck chocolatier currently offers their fall and halloween collections of chocolate bats, white chocolate filled ghosts, and a hand painted jack-o-lantern filled with gummy worms for $7.50.

copyright 2009 Jo Jo Kwong. all rights reserved.

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Imperial Palace Chinese Banquet

squid rolls

salt & pepper fried squid/seafood rolls. the first appetizer is usually something fried and crunchy.  these rolls were filled with squid and other seafood with some mayonaisse. i’m not crazy about mayo but these were hot and crunchy so they were still good.

Imperial Palace is my favorite Cantonese restaurant in Flushing, NY. Flushing is the second largest Chinatown in New York City, after the one in Manhattan.  It is a great place to eat Chinese food in terms of authenticity and price value.

walnut shrimps

walnut jumbo shrimps are delicious. the big shrimp are usually dusted with lotus flour and deep fried. then it is doused with a mayonaisse sauce, and served on top of a bed of steamed broccoli.  at imperial palace restaurant they add candied sesame walnuts which add a nutty and crunchy counterpoint to the succulent shrimp.  this is one of my favorite classic dishes.

oyster mushrooms n snow pea shoots

king oyster mushrooms and snow pea shoots – this dish combines 2 of my favorite foods. i love eating mushrooms and king oyster mushrooms are large mushrooms that can be cut into slabs.  they have a  smooth texture and are chewy. snow pea shoots are the tiny shoots of the snow pea plant, it is the tip of the growing plant with small leaves and thin curly tendrils. it is very tender and have a great deal of flavor.

dungeness crab over sticky rice

DUNGENESS CRAB OVER STICKY RICE – the BEST dish – cantonese division!! i arranged this chinese banquet at imperial palace for THIS dish.  as the dungeness crab is streamed over the sticky rice, it’s juices infuses into the sticky rice, and the scallion adds just the right touch of freshness to the sweet toothsomeness of the sticky rice.  i grabbed an empty dungessness crab shell that had crab juices in it, scooped some sticky rice inside the shell to absorb all the crab juice – a sublime experience.

this dish is worth a trip to flushing. the #7 subway train takes almost an hour, but the LIRR from Penn Station goes to Flushing in 16 minutes. (i time it every time) and it’s only $3 each way.  i arranged this chinese banquet for 90 people, and the only non-Chinese people in the restaurant were in my group.  I noticed that at nearly every table in the restaurant, they had ordered this dish!! if you like dungeness crab, and you like sticky rice, i think you will absolutely love this dish.

hugel gewurtztraminer

hugel et fils  gewurtztraminer 1975 vendange tardive -  a delicious honeyed mellow late harvest gewurtztraminer wine which went really well with this menu. the thing i love about most chinese restaurants is that they allow you to BYOB and do not even charge a corkage fee. riesling and champagne is also a good wine to drink with cantonese cuisine.

shark fin soup

shark’s fin soup. a normal item on any chinese banquet menu.  for those of you who object to the idea of eating shark’s fin, you should know that the monterey bay aquarium’s seafood watch had an article which shows that 50% of sharks are killed as a by-catch of fishing  for the other more ‘acceptable’ species of edible fish and seafood like tuna and bass.  so if you really care about not harvesting sharks for food, then stop eating all the other ocean fish because the fishing industry for the OTHER  fishes and seafood  kills 50% of all sharks.

crispy skin chicken

crispy skin chicken. another typical chinese banquet dish.  chinese people like the chicken to be cooked just barely this side of pink so that the meat is moistly soft and silky tender, and the bone is bloody, while the chicken skin is thin and has a crunchy snap.  it’s a simple dish, and when executed correctly, is wonderful.  this is one of those dishes that cannot easily be made at home because it takes skill to get that crispy skin while not overcooking the chicken meat.

steamed black fish

he’s not pretty but he’s soooo sweet!!  this 3 lb. steamed black fish had the most sweet succulent flesh. freshness is of paramount importance in chinese cuisine, which is why good chinese restaurants have tanks of live fish, crabs, shrimp and other sea creatures swimming around in.  i call them crab condos.  this black fish had some serious dentition but it was one of the silkiest fish i can remember ever eating.

abalone with black mushrooms

abalone and black mushrooms.  another classic banquet dish. abalone was always one of my 3 favorite foods as a child and still is now.  chinese black mushrooms (shiitake) is also great if you love mushrooms, which i do.  both abalone and mushroom have a similar smooth and firm chewiness so it’s textually compatible.  they are braised in a brown oyster sauce over long skinny chinese broccoli called ‘gai lan’.

sake

sake. this bottle of sake is from one of the liquor shops in flushing on main street.  most chinese restaurants serve beer and a  very limited wine list because they are family restaurants and most chinese  families do not drink booze with dinner. if you go to flushing chinatown for dinner and you’d like to bring your own wine,  this is a convenient option.

E-Fu noodles

E-Fu noodles are the best noodles – ever! i have always associated E-Fu noodles with chinese banquets because it’s usually served at the end of the 10 course meal along with fried rice.  E-Fu noodles are braised noodles – the braising gives the noodles a soft texture which you cannot get with sauteed or boiled noodles.  also being braised in soy sauce and stock allows the noodles to absorb the flavor which is why E-Fu noodles don’t have a sauce slapped on top of it like other noodle dishes – it doesn’t need it.    this is my favorite type of noodle.   at imperial palace you don’t need to book a chinese banquet to try it, you can just order it off the menu! i was too stuffed to take a photo of the fried rice or the sweet buns and sweet soup served at the end.

imperial palace restaurant is my favorite cantonese restaurant in flushing. 136-13 37th ave. flushing,ny

copyright Jo Jo Kwong 2009.  all rights reserved.


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I, macaron – Arnaud Lahrer

arnaud lahrer macarons

2 dozen macarons from arnaud lahrer.  his pastry shop macarons et chocolat is behind montmartre in paris.

when i heard that pastry chef arnaud lahrer had worked for pierre herme for years at fauchon before opening up his own pastry shop, i was quite curious as to how good his macarons were, especially since he had won a pastry award in 2007.  i was sorely disappointed.

these small macarons, just slightly over an inch wide, at first seemed cute and inviting. however, as i bit into each one, i was hard pressed to find some good or distinctive flavor in any of them.  this is shocking when you consider that he worked at the side of the master for years.  it’s even more shocking when you see that baking bloggers all over the internet are making beautiful macarons with impressive and exotic flavors.  lastly, when you consider that his pastry shop is in paris – the apotheosis of french pastry skills – these flavorless macarons are totally befuddling!

arnaud lahrer macarons

the white filling is rather odd – looks more like fondant than either ganache or buttercream.

most of the flavor of a good macaron comes from its’ filling, which is typically a flavored chocolate ganache or a fruit jam.  these arnaud lahrer macarons seem to contain some kind of sweet white filling with no discernible flavor other than sugar.  the caramel flavored one did have some burnt sugar taste, but the rest were truly forgettable.

arnaud lahrer macarons

where’s the flavor ? — are these FONDANT MACARONS ??   nearly every one has this white filling except for the chocolate one.

fondant is made of sugar and water. buttercream would at least look more yellowish and taste more buttery.  skimping on your expensive ingredients to cut cost is one thing, but this is beyond stingy.  this is like being the mc scrooge of macarons !   i offered the box to 2 children, who each took one, and did not come back for more. the fact that i would even share these macarons from paris tells you that i was not the least bit enamored of them to begin with.

i was so disillusioned that i threw the remaining box away.  quel dommage !

arnaud lahrer won the meilleur ouvrier de france award 2007 for pastry, so perhaps he made great cakes and macarons for the competition but is cutting corners on the macarons in his shop.

**the caveat of buying french macarons -  they ALL  look pretty.  those perky colors, the cute almond meringue shells with their requisite ‘feet’, the lush fillings,  the sheer variety of flavors offered up is quite enchanting.   however,  the proof of a good macaron is in their TASTE.   do not let appearances fool you because ALL macarons look brightly enticing and cute…. even the bad ones.

…. and if they come from paris, the expectation for excellence is all the greater, and the more feverishly one wishes for it to be fantastic. but the arnaud lahrer macarons did not deliver on its’ promise.

when you go to paris, save your money and buy macarons from the master, and my favorite – pierre herme.  (he now has 3 shops in paris)

once you’ve had the best, you cannot stand the rest !! (if they’re mediocre)   that’s the risk one takes when trying out new and unknown macarons. obviously provenance and hype is no guarantee of goodness.  macaron lovers want to try out every new macaron maker, hoping to find another great macaron, but if it’s subpar and doesn’t satisfy,  you suddenly wish you had gotten the better one, with a poignant mixture of humbled hindsight and relentless remorse.

only the best one is where your soul will find redemption!

***see my post on pierre herme macarons. stick with the best !

other good macarons:  gerard mulot, jean paul hevin.

copyright 2009 Jo Jo Kwong. all rights reserved.

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Fancy Food Show 2009

raisins on the vine

Not Cheese. These are moscato raisins dried on the vine. They have a softly chewy skin, and moistly sweet on the inside.  Something so simple as Moscato grapes left to dry on its vine, concentrating its’ natural sweetness yet retaining each grape’s moist texture. This is like the Bentley of raisins.

Fancy Food Show 2009 – Hundreds of Thousands of gourmet food products in the block long cavernous space of the Javits Center, which means hundreds of thousands of gourmet foods to sample and taste.  I tasted A LOT  of superb CHEESES.  At this year’s show there were numerous booths which had whole leg of Bellota Jamon, and Serrano Jamon, as well as other types of cured meats. I saw at least 3 whole suckling pigs, roasted to a crispy crackling brown.  Cheese and Prosciutto.  Pastries and Chocolates.  Chips and Sauces. After 2 days of tasting cheeses and cured meats, chocolates, cookies, coffees, pasta sauces, snack chips, candies -  my palate cried out for……… FRUIT !

sid wainer purple artichoke

I was dying for some plain, unadorned refreshing  juicy fruit.  My salvation was the Sid Wainer booth, a purveyor of fine foods including the most beautiful fresh vegetables and fruits.  On their counter was a bowl piled with clusters of tiny champagne grapes.  Each grape is smaller than a salmon caviar. As these miniature grapes popped in my mouth releasing their cold delicate sweet grape juice, it felt like the best thing I tasted at the whole show.  It was certainly the most transcendent.  I scarfed downed a couple of bunches happily.  This 3″ baby purple artichoke is from Sid Wainer, as well as the moscato raisin clump above .

bacon lip balm

Bacon Lip Balm – everything should taste like bacon? Only if you want to smell bacon all the time, and this lip balm does smell exactly like a very smoky bacon. As scientists tell us that 90% of ‘taste’ is actually smell – I fear this bacon lip balm is gonna make me want to eat bacon day and night.  Bacon fans will love this, vegetarians, not so much.  Brought to you by Justin & Dave, who created BaconSalt and Baconnaise.

Artisanal cheeses at the show are always of a high quality, with each cheesemonger offering at least a dozen cheeses for tasting.  Some truly fabulous cheeses. But, how many hand made goat cheeses do you have to try before IT ALL TASTES LIKE CHEESE ??   After my 85th sample of fine artisanal cheese, as I was being regaled by the Italian owner about how this was his grandmother’s cheese company, and after her death he left his career as a naval officer in Italy to expand his grandmother’s cheese company, a wave of sludgey moraise infused my body as his voice  seemed to fade away into the distance. My ears started tuning out because I noticed that my tastebuds were saying — IT ALL TASTES LIKE CHEESE !!  I could no longer distinguish what was so special about this goat/sheep’s milk blend vs. any other fine cheese. I was suffering from  Cheese Fatigue. At that moment, if you gave me some Velveeta, I would have said – it all tastes like cheese………..

almond butter squeese pack

Almond Butter Squeeze Pack  – I like this product because it gives you no-mess one oz. serving packs of almond butter anywhere you go.  It’s a healthy snack and although it’s perfect for when you go rock climbing or camping, since I engage in neither activity, I think this is a good thing to keep around your desk or in your car for those times when you’re starving and tempted to get junk food.  Good for dieters to keep on hand. Comes in 9 flavors including Cinnamon, Maple, and in Peanut Butter, Hazelnut Butter,by Justin’s.

carica fruit

Carica Fruit from Chile. Carica is one of the few fruits on Earth that cannot be eaten raw.  It must be cooked in order to soften it enough for human consumption.  It has a mild delicate flavor, somewhere between a pear and a white nectarine with a firm toothsome bite.  It now comes in plastic vacuum packs, which the personable rep Daniel happily demonstrated  “You can’t break this!!” by dramatically throwing a pack on the floor in front of my feet !

madeleine

The One You Remember – Lemon Zest Madeleines. I really liked the lemony flavor of this madeleine, surprisingly good considering it’s a packaged bakery item.  It tasted of butter and just enough sweetness.  If your last name is Proust, no need to pine for your one unforgettable love because you can simply keep a bunch of these on hand.  Donsuemor also makes madeleines in Chocolate.

choc-o-lait

Choc-O-Lait – a.k.a. Hot Chocolate on a Stick. This is my favorite new invention at the 2009 Fancy Food Show.  You just dunk this Cube-O-Chocolate into a cup of hot milk,  and within 10 seconds you get a pretty good cup of hot chocolate! There is no measuring with a spoon and getting cocoa powder all over your counter, no dripping spoon to find something to rest on, the little wooden stick becomes a lightweight stirrer. This is made with Belgian chocolate and comes in  4 flavors – Dark, Milk, Hazelnut and Cointreau.  My fave is the Cointreau.  It comes in various sizes: 2 cubes to a pack, or a nice tall box. I like the Mug Pack which comes with their signature Choc-O-Lait porcelain mug  & saucer and a 2 cube pack of hot chocolate.  This item would make a great gift for any chocophile.  I had very low expectations for an ‘instant’ product, so I was quite surprised at how good this tasted.  This is a new product from Belgium.

redmond clay

Edible Clay! For those of you who don’t like hot chocolate,  why not try drinking some CLAY?   That’s right, clay is good for you!  Why? because it contains all the essential MINERALS that your body needs and is probably not getting enough of because of the modern diet filled with high calorie but low nutrient sugar-laden foods and snacks.  Actually many of which are representated at the Fancy Food Show heh! …  Many primitive cultures around the world actually dig up clay deposits, and carry a cone or a ball of clay from which they nibble on to get their daily minerals. You simply mix this with any liquid such as water or juice.  It’s natural Bentonite clay from the earth, I prefer this to a laboratory made mineral pill. Redmond clay. Mud pie, anyone?

staud's jams

Staud’s Jams – This Apricot Jam blew me away! I can’t read German but this Apricot Jam was the most intense apricot-y  preserve I’ve ever tasted, like pure apricots cooked down for hours with very little sugar,  and Apricot is not even one of my most liked flavors.  Staud’s is an Austrian company, and I’ve seen this brand in gourmet shops but never tried it before, now I’m sold.

korean salt

Korean Sea Salt. To me, SALT is SALT. and this new one tastes SALTY.   There is a whole category of gourmet sea salts, the most famous being the gray French Fleur de Sel from Guerande. Newer iterations range from Black Lava Salt from Volcanic Hawaii to Viking Smoked Sea Salt, and now the latest is Solar Sea Salt from Korea.  translation- it’s dried in the sun.  Duhhh………… I think they will have a hard time competing with French and American fancy salts.

freeze dried honey

Freezed Dried Honey Lozenges from New Zealand. This is pure honey from one of the cleanest non-polluted places in the world.  Honey is a natural anti-microbial and these are perfect for a sore throat, or when you just want something sweet.  It’s better than candy because honey contains antioxidants.   Airborne Honey is a line of various types of honey from New Zealand.

coconut,pine nut oils

PINE NUT OIL and Virgin Coconut Oil. I LOVED the smell of this toasted Pine Nut Oil from China. However, it is not available yet in any store in the U.S.   There are various International Sections at the Fancy Food Show, they are usually sparse and forlorn, nearly empty booths with very little product on display, some do not even provide samples – no samples means I’ll just past them by.   Downstairs, the Korea section flowed into the China section.  The China sections comprised big wide booths with a few product packages on display but no edible samples.  I noticed it must have been lunchtime as each Chinese exhibitor was eating – Chinese Take Out !!    At the Fancy Food Show !!! HAHAHA!!

Pine Nut Oil is sold to distributors in gigantic 500 gallon drums, and the rep told me that they do not have a distributor here yet.  I think this Pine Nut Oil would be insanely good on a salad or drizzled on top of toast and meats.  Just needs good packaging and distribution.  The Virgin Coconut Oil is from India.

numi

Not Chocolate.  This is an Aged Pu-Erh Tea Brick. This is from Numi Tea Co.  Pu-Erh Tea compressed into a brick is the ancient Chinese way of packing  this tea, prior to the Ming Dynasty. Tea bricks were easy to transport along the tea route to India and Tibet.  Pu-Erh Tea bricks can also be aged for decades.  It was interesting to see this tea brick by Numi since most of their tea are sold as teabags.

spices

Pre-measured Spice & Herb Kits from World Cuisine. Have you ever wanted to make  a Mediterranean recipe that required exotic spices like Sumac and Za’atar, hunted them down for your dish and then your jars of spices just sat there going stale for years?  I once actually trekked out to Sahadi’s in Brooklyn to buy Sumac, forgetting that I live a mere couple blocks from Kalustyan’s,  D’oh!

World Cuisine Institute has solved the gourmet cook’s problem of having to buy many jars of spices and herbs and not being able to use it all up.  The aroma and flavor of all spices and herbs are derived from its’ oil which are highly volatile compounds.  As soon as it is ground, it starts to lose its aromatics and go stale quickly.  This is the Lebanese Recipe Pack which contains Sumac, Za’atar and Salt – enough for one recipe .  They have larger spice packs, the Indian Chicken Curry pack has 9 spices and herbs for 2 lbs. of chicken. The Moroccan Lamb Tagine has 10 spices.  This saves time and cost as you only purchase the spices as you need them, and they’re pre-sorted for the flavor profile of each world cuisine. An easy way to improve your repertoire of dishes.

himalayan pink salt

Himala Salt. This is himalayan pink salt in 1″ bottles, and the cutest sample of the show.

dagoba chocolate

Dagoba Lavender Blueberry chocolate. Smells like lavender but not much blueberry taste.  Dagoba’s chocolates taste much better now than they used to.  I also liked their Milagros 68%.

Overall, I was not that impressed with the chocolate offerings at the show.  Nothing new or exciting.  What happened to the chocolate vendors?  It seemed like there were many more chocolatiers and companies in past years.  The chocolate booths at this year’s show seemed to be mostly large manufacturers like Guittard, Callebaut and Valrhona.

pear tart

Cabernet Pear Tart from David’s Cookies. This tart was even better than the warm chocolate chip cookies they were handing out.  Big sections of pear over a layer of almond pastry cream on a butter cookie crust.  David’s Cookies also makes cheescakes. and cookies.

emeril can drainer

Need a Can Drainer?  Emeril has one for you. This was a freebie given out at the Emeril booth. I don’t buy any canned foods but I thought this could be used like a mini colander to wash small foods, like a few berries??

syrup n jams

Pancake syrup and Jams. Not everything at the Fancy Food Show is “fancy”.  There are plenty of mass market products like this line of fruit flavored syrups.  The Lazzaris jams are from Italy.

Copyright 2009 Jo Jo Kwong.  all rights reserved.


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Yasuda is Sushi Man

i am not chef, i am sushi man“. so i asked him : “can i call you sushi man?”

baby-squid.jpg

scene: sushi yasuda on east 43 street, sushi bar, corner

time: 9:45 p.m. exactly

dinner: omakase

yasuda san appeared promptly at our appointed time. (there were 3 other sushi chefs on the line) i had specifically requested him because, well, since it’s his name emblazoned on the restaurant marquee why would i want anyone else, hmm?  i didn’t want to lug my dslr camera and make a spectacle of myself, so i didn’t take any photos.. all the better to savor, feel, chew and taste each sushi the instant that it leaves his hands. these photos are courtesy of chris chen.

finger-napkin.jpg

stand up finger napkin – it’s the japanese custom to eat sushi with your fingers because chopsticks may break up the sushi rice. authentic sushi rice is barely held together – it’s not supposed to be gummy rice grains stuck like glue. pick up each scrumptilicious sushi wth your fingers, and clean them on this moistened finger napkin. this suits me perfectly as i often eat with my fingers, even in fancy restaurants i’ll eat like a savage and pick up food with my digits.

kimo – i love monkfish liver, but i thought it was called ankimo, so i asked him what is the difference between kimo and ankimo? he very thoroughly explained that ankimo is the monkfish liver, and kimo is the whole organ of the fish. uhhh… i didn’t quite get it but as long as it tastes good, a kimo by any other name would taste as silky smooth. the kimo was on the specials list. it was 3 small discs of kimo, smooth and firm, with 2 pieces of soft cooked chicken liver and 3 pieces of cooked uni in a light shoyu. i would have preferred this dish to be all kimo.

flash fried arctic char – also a special. a slab of breaded char completely hidden under a small mountain of grated daikon. the grated daikon was suffused throughout with a delicate light brown sauce. really outstanding taste. yummy…

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uni (sea urchin) is one of my two favorite sushi/sashimi. yasuda started me off with a santa barbara uni sushi. (i wanted to eat both types of uni side by side but the maine uni sold out a couple minutes before) santa barbara uni is sweeter, milder and has a softer creamier mouthfeel than the maine uni. near the end of the sushi parade he made me another uni sushi. the unctious uni melts in your mouth right into that sublime rice and becomes a seamless delight.

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eel me in …….. ORDER THE EEL here. any eel at sushi yasuda will make you shut up and swoon. and trust me, it takes a lot to make me swoon. anago (sea eel), unagi (freshwater eel) are my favorites, so as long as i get any varieties of these i am happy as a giant geoduck clam. here, the natural sweetness of the eel flesh itself is truly something to behold. this is not your average eel blitzed with that syrupy brown glop that you find at lesser japanese restaurants. notice the signature yasuda rice – each grain distinct and subtly seasoned. its specific density perfectly supports and merges into that crazy sweet flesh draped seductively on top. the word “yoga” means “union”. this is ultimate sushi yoga.

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wow, he works fast! sea bream, anago, arctic char, white king salmon, oyster, yellowtail, toro, sea scallop sushi, came flying out of his hands and onto the green banana leaf. this might be the result of decades of experience. these  names are just a few of the sushi that i ate. i don’t know what all the fish were – but it doesn’t really matter because it’s all so succulent! each piece of sea creature is pristine, tender and lovingly forged into a bite size morsel. each piece is sauced perfectly by yasuda so there is no need to dunk it in soy sauce which i think would ruin the subtle individual nuance of each variety of fish. the whole point of omakase is trusting the chef to give you the best that he has on hand and balancing the flavors for you. and i like putting my brain on hold. in fact, i’m putting my brain on hold right now heehee……….

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peace passage oyster sushi - i’ve never been a big fan of raw bivalves. you have to slurp raw oysters down because you don’t really wanna chew their sandy bellies. so i was pleasantly surprised by how fleshy and firm this oyster was – it was 80% briny oyster meat that i could chew with only a tiny belly. it tasted of faraway deep cold ocean currents.

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ikura sushi - awesome. yasuda cures the salmon roe himself. they are thin skinned transparent orbs which bursts into mild liquid explosions of flavor. ethereal and pure tasting.

the restaurant is spaciously elegant, with honeyed wood floors and walls rising up to a 20 foot ceiling. between the sushi bar and the tables is a wide expanse of open floor space which is quite unusual considering the cost of commercial real estate in midtown. six or eight more tables could easily fit on it, but by not doing that, sushi yasuda has a calm and quiet civility. however, this may account for the fast pace of the sushi. within an hour, he’ll make at least 22 pieces of sushi for you. as soon as i put one in my mouth, he puts another one on the leaf before i’m done chewing. if i’m engrossed in a conversation, chewing and talking, the sushi quickly starts piling up on my leaf. it’s a sushi autobahn. the fast lane make-n-eat-your-omakase-in-an-hour pace may be due to all that empty floor space where they could have put more tables but did not, so they really need to turn those seats fast.  or perhaps it is best to  savor every fresh morsel in this temple of sushi without the distraction of speech.

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clearly, for yasuda, his rice is the soul of his sushi. can rice have soul? yes.

there are a few other japanese restaurants in manhattan that serves superb raw fish and sashimi, but yasuda san takes great pride in making sushi with a capital S. after eating about 11 sushi, i slowed my eating down to chew on the sushi rice so as to zoom in on its unique texture and flavor. each one of his sushi bears the mark of its maker. it is individually molded and shaped to form a a soft springy bed for its lovely cover. he places the importance of his rice above his fish. ask him for sashimi at your own peril ……

sushi rice – having a curious mind, i asked him how many years of making sushi rice before he got it “right”, having been in cooking school,  i prefaced my question with “chef”.  yasuda stopped what he was doing, turned around from his work board, stood still facing me with both arms by his side, and said: “i make rice every morning and afternoon, every day. many many years, when i am old, i still make rice every morning and afternoon, every day. i make rice.” then he dipped his chin slightly, smiled at me and said:

“i am not chef. i am sushi man.”

yasuda photo: elyse pasquale

ladies and gentlemen, i give you naomichi yasuda, the best sushi man of new york. just don’t call him a chef.

*my thanks to chris chen co-owner of the dessert truck for the sushi photos. my thanks to elyse pasquale for the photo of yasuda.

copyright 2009 Jo Jo Kwong. all rights reserved.

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Blue Potato Chips

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BLUE CHIPHENGE.
these megaliths are ridge cut blue potato chips from the trader joe brand.

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blistered all over. with curved ridges in tones of blue purple with an orange center, i find these blue potato chips quite beautiful. for some reason, they are not greasy at all… just noticed that the bag says 33% less fat.

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blue chips - the preferred snack of wall streeters. just kidding, any other streeter can crunch on them. they have a deep potato flavor, and are the thickest ridge cut potato chips that i have ever had, their textured sturdiness makes for a perfect dip chip. most other chips break when you dip them into anything, even something soft like salsa. these guys are blue potatonators – indestructible! they’re also low in sodium so you really taste the blue potatoes. *note – don’t eat these while talking on the phone because the crunching will be deafening.

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smoked whitefish salad from acme fish co. i used the chips to scoop this up. bought this in the lobster place which is inside the chelsea market on 9th ave. and 15th street. it’s a bit on the salty side which goes well with the blue potato chips. smoked whitefish salad is really yummy. other dip options – guacamole, salsa, cream cheese with scallions, chili, sour cream, egg salad ….

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today i saw and bought a bag of ridge cut sweet potato chips.

copyright 2009 Jo Jo Kwong. all rights reserved.

copyright 2007 eat2love.wordpress.com

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CAVIAR

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sturgeon caviar is one of the pleasures of life. these svelte and silky, glistening, briny little orbs popping and melting inside your mouth, tasting of the sea itself. the mild and smooth egg white being the perfect foil. 2 types of eggies are better than one. sturgeon caviar deserves to be put on a pedestal.

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caviar malossol from paramount. malossol is the russian word for “little salt”, which means that this caviar is preserved with a minimum amount of salt.
1 spoonful of caviar supplies the daily requirement of vit. B12 !
fun fact – sturgeon are fish that have no scales, and a long flat snout.

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dig in…. but not with metal spoons, not even sterling silver.. oops.
steel or silver alters the taste and color of caviar, it’s better to use those little mother-of-pearl caviar spoons. caviar should be served very cold on ice.

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the birds of valhalla eat caviar …… mmm mmm mm. actually i have no idea what they eat in valhalla. but sturgeon caviar sounds mighty fine anywhere.

*valhalla is the god odin’s hall in norse mythology. he had lots of warriors.

*all antique jades and silverware, collection of the author.

copyright 2009 Jo Jo Kwong. all rights reserved. copyright 2007 eat2love.wordpress.com

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Filed under antiques, artisanal food